The conserving cottage, continued

by Susan Nerberg

Illustrations by Greg Latimer and Amanda Reed, Levitt Goodman Architects

Click on detailed illustrations to enlarge

Septic systems and toilets

“A properly functioning septic system, together with the maintenance of natural shoreline buffers and protection against soil eroding into the lake, is the most important measure cottagers can take in safeguarding their lake’s water quality,” says Gord Nielsen, an aquatic biologist in Bracebridge. “Phosphorus from improperly treated sewage has a direct effect on the amount of algae in our lakes.” A standard installation – consisting of a tank, an effluent distribution system, and a tile bed in which the effluent is dispersed – is the best first option for most family cottages. (Advanced systems, which might include an aerobic treatment tank or a bacterial culture, are designed to provide acceptable treatment in a smaller space.)

A promising new technique to remove phosphorus from effluent (still in the early stages of implementation) uses a specific type of soil – known as pre-Cambrian B Horizon soil – in and around the tile bed. The high aluminum and iron content of these soils – which occur naturally on many cottage sites or can be locally sourced – binds phosphorus chemically and physically. The septic contractor and the municipal health officer will help you determine the best location for the tile bed; in general, the farther from the lake, the better.

Reducing the effluent flow to the septic tile bed minimizes the risk of untreated or partially treated water escaping. Graham Smith, also a partner at Altius, suggests installing low-flow (six-litre) or, even better, dual-flush (three-litre/six-litre) toilets to reduce wastewater. Composting toilets, which use little or no water, work well where a traditional septic system can’t be installed, such as on small rocky islands. They are a sensible option when adding a second toilet, especially if the extra septic load of another conventional toilet is a concern. But choose a composting toilet that suits your usage patterns. To function properly, some models need to be used regularly, or the culture that does the composting dies. If use is infrequent, an outhouse is a tried-and-true option.

Renewable energy sources

Solar panels convert sunlight into electricity via photovoltaic cells. Today’s lightweight panels can easily be attached to just about any roof. Photovoltaic electricity generation doesn’t produce any emissions at point of use and the power source will not run out in the foreseeable future. But consider whether your energy needs and usage patterns make solar a wise choice:  In a seasonal cottage with high energy demands, it may not make financial sense as the upfront costs can take many years to recover. Paul Dowsett suggests a rule of thumb – if your cottage is more than 400 metres from a power line, your bank account may be better off with a solar or wind system than a hydro hookup.

There are also many solar water-heating systems on the market: flat plate collectors that can be winterized and systems in which a metallic solar collector is suspended inside clear vacuum tubes. All require a storage tank and, likely, an auxiliary water heater, which uses a small amount of energy to boost the temperature from sun-warmed to hot, if needed.

Other renewable options include wind power and geothermal (also known as water- or ground-source) heating and cooling. While these, like photovoltaic panels, are certainly eco-friendly, they may not be appropriate for your cottage. Wind turbines are only cost-effective in areas with good and reliable wind (breezes are not enough); a geothermal heating system works best in a well-insulated building with a constant, moderate demand for heat.

Backup systems and generators

Being green shouldn’t end when there’s a power failure. While the conventional back--up solution – a gas generator that powers an electrical subpanel – keeps the refrigerator and a few lights on, it also produces emissions and noise. Adding a muffler and specifying a propane or diesel generator (that runs on biodiesel) make the backup system more environment friendly, but there are even greener alternatives. A battery bank that’s charged by regular hydro could power a cottage for a week, depending on its size and the cottage’s energy needs. Where smart meters are available, the charging could be set for off-peak hours, when electricity is less costly. Battery backups can be designed to come on automatically if there’s a power outage and create no local emissions or noise. Another option is to use hydro for everyday cottage needs, but install a small solar or wind system just big enough to charge a battery backup. If you also install a net metering system, as long as the batteries are charged, the excess power from your solar or wind system goes back into the grid, saving you money on electricity bills.

In the end, says Graham Smith, dealing with power failures comes back to the cottage itself. A well-designed structure can eliminate many of the problems cottagers try to overcome with technology (think air conditioning or space heating), and minimize the electricity need in the first place. In the winter, for instance, a properly insulated cottage that’s sited to take advantage of passive solar heat and equipped with a carefully designed plumbing system should stay warm enough to keep the pipes from freezing, with little or no artificial heating. What’s more, installing energy-efficient appliances and maximizing natural light reduces the size, complexity, and cost of any backup system. What’s true for emergency power also goes for the actual cottage. “The bottom line,” says Smith, “is that conservation by design is still the first and best option to consider.”

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Part 1 - Retrofitting a greener getaway

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