The Perfect Privy

By Wayne Lennox

 

Privy, john, biffy, crapper, backhouse, whatever you call it, the outhouse remains a common architectural feature on the cottage landscape. Technically considered a Class 1 sewage treatment system by the Ontario Ministry of the Environment, outdoor facilities constitute the master ensuite for a surprising number of cottagers, or provide backup relief for countless others. My brother-in-law is among the latter; he has indoor plumbing but still maintains an outhouse up the hill from the cottage. It takes the pressure off the septic system, and is handy when you're working outside - no need to take the old boots off, just head up to the backhouse.

 

According to the Ontario Building Code (OBC), structures under 108 square feet do not require a building permit. (An outhouse over 108 square feet would be quite the edifice - the one featured in the   July/August 1999 issue of Cottage Life magazine measures under 20 square feet.) However, it's a good idea to check with your municipality for local bylaws regarding outhouses. There are also specific OBC regulations regarding their placement and construction.

 

Requirements for Pit Placement
  • 15 metres from a drilled well that has a watertight casing at least 6 metres deep.
  • 30 metres from a dug well or a spring used for drinking water.
  • 15 metres from a lake, river, pond, stream, or reservoir.
  • 3 metres from any property line.
  • 90 cm above the high groundwater table in your area.
  • The sides of the pit must be reinforced to prevent collapse.
  • The pit must be surrounded on all sides and on its bottom by not less than 60 cm of soil or leaching bed fill. (This means that at least 60 cm of soil must separate the bottom of the hole from bedrock, or some such impermeable barrier.) 
  • The soil around the superstructure of the pit (i.e. the base on which the outhouse sits) must be raised or mounded to a height of at least 15 cm above surrounding ground level to encourage runoff away from the pit.

 

Construction Regulations
  • There must be at least one ventilation duct, screened at the top.
  • There must be an impervious material on the inside vertical face of the enclosed bench - plastic or galvanized metal (we chose the latter for the Cottage Life outhouse).
  • There must be a self-closing door (simply add spring hinges) to minimize the entry of critters.
  • There must be one or more screened openings for ventilation. This doesn't have to be a window, though we chose to add two windows to our structure to provide cross-ventilation.
  • The privy must be easily sanitized - painting the inside, as we did, makes cleaning a much easier task).

 

Building Tips
  • Dig the hole first. (It's been known to happen: An enthusiastic DIYer erects the structure, then can't find a way to excavate the pit.)
  • Pressure-treated or creosoted timbers are the best material for the base of the structure; untreated hemlock or tamarack (also known as eastern larch) are also good choices for their natural ability to resist decay.
  • Use 6" X 6" timbers (minimum) to frame the hole. Half-lap corners are advisable.
  • If you use pressure-treated wood, remember to treat all cut ends with an appropriate preservative.
  • Avoid letting soil touch the floor frame.

 

Project Tool Box
  • Shovel
  • Wheelbarrow
  • Pry bar
  • Rake
  • Tape measure
  • Circular or hand saw
  • Hammer
  • Rechargeable drill with appropriate driver bits
  • Jig saw
  • Utility knife or shingle knife
  • Level
  • Square
  • Sliding T-bevel

 

We published complete plans and instructions for building "The Perfect Privy" in the July/August 1999 issue of Cottage Life magazine. Unfortunately this issue has been sold out for many years, but you can click here to purchase a copy of the plans as seen in that issue.