All Decked Out

By Wayne Lennox

The deck is often the entertainment centre at the cottage. It’s a great place to eat and drink (so what if something gets spilled?) and it generally accommodates a crowd.

A normal deck is a reasonably straightforward project, within the skill-set of the average cottager. Before you begin, here are some key points you need to consider.

The Building Permit

Generally, any structure over 108 square feet (an area smaller than the average deck) requires a building permit but, in some municipalities, a permit is required for any structure attached to the cottage. It will be granted only if your construction project meets both provincial and municipal regulations.

In this province, the Ontario Building Code is the construction bible (other provinces/states have similar documents). For deck builders, critical features covered by the OBC include:

  • Joist and beam specs
  • Construction of piers
  • Stair and railing specs

Municipal bylaws will also likely impact on your plans. Municipal requirements pertain to such things as:

  • Setback from your neighbour’s lot line
  • Setback from the shore

Your local building inspector can help you sort out the necessary strictures and will also outline the level of detail required in the plans you have to submit for a building permit.

 

Design

Once you have familiarized yourself with code requirements, you can think about the fun stuff – design. Deck designs can be original or gleaned from books, magazines, and other deck builders. Regardless, you’ll need to make a few decisions:

  • Will the deck be attached or free-standing? (different construction rules apply in each case)
  • How big should it be?
  • What’s more important: sun or shade or a combination of both?
  • Should it consist of more than one level?
  • If the elevation above grade is significant, how can you make the view of the underside more appealing?
  • How will you deal with obstructions such as favourite trees or a rock face?
  • If you can’t have both, is the view of the lake more important than privacy from neighbouring cottages?
  • Should you install permanent seating?
  • Will you build traditional railings or install clear panels?

Take your time at this stage. You may be living with your decision for 20 years or more.

 

Project Tool Box
  • wheelbarrow
  • shovel
  • pry bar
  • hammer
  • 3/8" drill & bits
  • 4' level
  • circular saw
  • square
  • tape measure
  • string and/or chalk line
  • socket set or adjustable wrench
  • safety glasses
  • clamps
  • crowbar
  • jigsaw
  • handsaw
Choosing a Material

Essentially, you have three main options for building materials.

  1. Pressured-treated lumber (PT) is the most common choice for deck construction. It is the cheapest material available and weathers well (keep in mind that all cut ends must be treated with preservative).
  2. Cedar is the most attractive and natural pick, but it is about twice as expensive as PT. However, you can cut costs by building the substructure – posts, beams, joists, ledger board, and so on – out of PT.
  3. Composite materials – a combination of wood and plastic materials (some are 100% plastic) – can be used for the deck surface, but not for structural components because they don’t have the strength of solid wood. They are attractive, wear well, require little maintenance, and are a commendable environmental choice because they incorporate recycled materials. However, composites are two to four times the cost of PT. A veneer-like composite material is available that can be installed over PT to make it better looking.

 

Stairs

Stairs can be the most challenging aspect of deck construction; ready-made stringers are available at building supply stores if you don’t think you’re up to the task.

 

Railings

Railings or guardrails are mandatory on any deck 2' or more above finished grade. Some Code guidelines:

  • Deck 2' to 5' 11" above grade: railing height must be not less than 2' 11".
  • Deck higher than 5' 11" above grade: railing must be not less than 3' 6".
  • The guardrail must be non-climbable.
  • Verticals cannot be spaced more than 4" apart.
  • This means that the verticals often interfere with the view of the lake. Approved tempered-glass panels can be used instead, but are more costly.
The Finish Line

I am of the “less is best” school of finishes for outdoor projects, but a wide variety of products is available for those cottagers who like to spend time duelling with the elements. Generally, they fall into two groups:

  1. Stains (they can be oil or latex, semi-transparent or solid)
  2. Water sealers

For more information on the pros and cons of various exterior finishes and how to apply them, see “Refinishing School,” in the June 2002 issue of Cottage Life magazine.

For another helpful article on deck design, click here.